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Suit Up! What Goes Around Comes Around
By Marjorie Brody
Monday, 22nd November 2004
 
It's baaack …. that's right, the button-up, traditional suit is again the "in" fashion style at businesses across the country.

Employees at Lehman Brothers and other Wall Street firms are showing the latest styles in business professional wear. They are returning to the old classics … will you?

In early February 2002, Lehman Brothers sent a memo to its staff insisting that employees wear formal business suits all the time. Soon after this, one of the company's analysts issued a report that stated formal wear was back in vogue and upgraded the stock of men's clothier Phillips-Van Heusen. The stocks of other clothing stores known for their business attire like Men's Wearhouse and Jos. A. Bank are also being valued highly in light of this return to formal wear.

Why The Suit is Back
When times are hard, people tend to dress better. And we've sure had our share of tough economic times lately, with the recession and layoffs.

With the collapse of the stock market and the dot-com meltdown, many professionals are hoping the return to classic business attire will boost their credibility.

Since job interviews often are more formal, applicants are dressing up as a way to beat the competition - to give them an edge over the next person with equal qualifications but a dressed-down wardrobe.

The editor of www.dressingwell.com suggests part of the trend back toward business professional attire is because Americans are more serious post 9-11, and it's reflected in the dress code.

Whatever the reason, the reality is undisputed … "business casual" is passé and "business professional" is "in."

No one disputes the powerful image that's conveyed when a professional is wearing a business suit vs. a sporty shirt and khakis.

The Men's Apparel Alliance now has proof. They recently commissioned a "professional style scale' that went to all Fortune 500 companies. At the no-collar Style Level 1, an employee conveys an "unofficial" and "temporary" air. Those dressed in full-suit Style Level 4, however, come across as "authoritative" and "credible."

So, it's time to re-evaluate your business professional work wardrobe.

Back to Basics: Business Professional for Men
Here are our recommendations for business professional dress for men.

Clothing specifics:
  • Two-piece suit: This is usually the best choice for most businesses. At least five 2-button, 3-button or double-breasted suits should be the basis of the business wardrobe. Double-breasted jackets are always buttoned. Classic styling is recommended; European cuts rarely flatter broad-shouldered American men. The jackets should not be worn with other trousers.
  • Sport coat and trousers: They should always contrast for a more casual look.
  • Ties: The knot should fill the space at the top of the shirt. When combining suit, shirt and tie, choose:
    • One solid and two patterns
    • Two solids and one pattern
    • Three patterns (takes skill and experience to coordinate)
The best colors for business clothing are:

Suits, sport coats, and trousers:
  • Navy, gray and charcoal are powerful colors.
  • Be careful with black -- it can be intimidating.
  • Medium blue is friendly.
  • Pinstripe adds power.
  • Plaid sports coats are too casual for business.
Shirts:
  • Should always be long sleeve
  • Solid colors are preferred; white is the best and safest choice.
  • Pale blue is also acceptable.
  • Light blue and red pinstripes are acceptable alternatives in some organizations.
  • Avoid lavender, peach, plaids, dots and broad stripes.
Ties:
  • Tie should contrast with jacket.
  • Tie and suit color should complement each other, but not match.
  • Burgundy, red and navy work as background colors.
  • Small geometric prints and stripes are good choices.
  • Paisleys with subdued patterns are alternatives.
  • Tie colors should be subtle.
  • Do not wear a matching handkerchief.
Best fabrics for:

Suits, jackets and trousers:
  • Wool/Wool blends - Can be worn all year; do not wrinkle easily.
  • Cotton blends - A cotton pincord or poplin is for warm weather.
Shirts:
  • Cotton (100%) - Best choice but needs professional laundering.
  • Cotton/Polyester blend - Choose shirts with more cotton than polyester; they resist wrinkling.
Ties:
  • Silk (100%) - The preferred choice. It's elegant and can be worn all year in any climate.
Accessories:
  • Jewelry - No more than one ring per hand. Good quality watch in sterling silver, gold or stainless steel.
  • Belts - Either leather or reptile in black, brown or burgundy. Use discreet brass buckle. Suspenders are acceptable. Belt color should match shoes.
  • Socks - Over-the-calf in either nylon or thin cotton. Should be black, brown or navy. Choose color to match or blend with trousers. Exception: with tan trousers, the socks should match the shoes.
  • Shoes - Leather in either lace-up or slip-on style is preferred. Tasseled loafers are less conservative.
  • Wing tips are for colder climates. Shoe color should not be lighter than trouser color. Wear black shoes with gray, navy or black suits and dark brown shoes with tan, brown or beige suits.
  • Briefcase - Brown, black or burgundy leather.
Back to Basics: Business Professional Wardrobe Choices for Women
The following information should be used as a guide. Each woman will develop a style that best reflects her own personality and individual taste.

Three styles of clothing:
  • The skirt suit and pantsuit. These should be the mainstay of your wardrobe. A suit with a single-breasted jacket is more formal and more conservative than one with a double-breasted jacket. A double-breasted jacket should always be buttoned.

    There are two types of skirt suits and pantsuits:
  • The matched suit in which the jacket is not worn with other skirts or slacks
  • The constructed jacket with a contrasting skirt or slacks
  • Unconstructed jacket. This is a casual, loose fitting jacket that can be used to mix and match with skirts and slacks to extend your wardrobe.
  • One- or two-piece dress. Can be worn alone or with a jacket. This look is not as powerful as a suit, though very appropriate in certain situations.
Best colors for business clothing:
  • Suits, jackets, skirts and slacks: Black, bright blue, navy, taupe, gray, burgundy, brown and red (jacket).
  • Blouses: Red, turquoise, emerald green, fuchsia, white, off-white, pink, burgundy, beige, tan, and gray.
  • Dresses: Gray, navy, burgundy, beige, camel, tan, red, pink and rose.
  • Shoes: Black, navy, burgundy and taupe. Avoid red, pink, rose, yellow and white.
  • Scarves: Select colors from the suit or dress to tie the outfit together.
Best fabrics for suits, jackets, skirts and slacks:
  • Wool/Wool blends - Some wools, such as gabardine, can be worn year-round and are long-lasting. Wrinkles fall out if the garment is hung up overnight.
  • Linen - Avoid it, as it wrinkles easily. Can be used if blended with man-made fabrics. Cotton can be effective in warm climates.
  • Silk - Be careful, because it can wrinkle and appear too dressy.
Best fabrics for dresses:
  • Silk - Works best.
  • Linen - Avoid it, as it wrinkles easily. Can be used if blended with man-made fabrics.
  • Cotton - Avoid it, as it is usually too casual for business wear.
  • Rayon (100%) - Can be effective.
Best fabrics for blouses:
  • Silk - Best choice, but it can be expensive to dry clean. Check the label since some silk is now washable.
  • Cotton (100%) - Good choice. However, it should be starched and needs to be pressed carefully.
  • Polyester should look like a natural fabric. Be careful not to buy any material that has a chemical sheen. Can be either hand or machine washed. Will not wrinkle.
Accessories:
  • Belts - Leather is best, and they should coordinate with your shoes.
  • Shoes - Classic leather pumps are the best-selling business shoe. Shoes should be darker than the color of your hemline. Two-inch heels are recommended. Avoid sandals and open-toed shoes.
  • Scarves: Silk (100%) - It's the only choice. Other fabrics do not knot or tie as well.
  • Hosiery: You can't go wrong with neutral or flesh-toned. Do not wear dark stockings with light shoes. But, do wear them!
  • Jewelry -14 karat gold, sterling silver or quality costume pieces. Avoid jewelry that dangles or makes noise.
  • Don't overdo your jewelry. Limit rings to one per hand. Wear the best watch you can afford. Pearls add elegance to any business suit.
  • Handbag/Briefcase - Leather is preferred. Best colors are: black, brown and burgundy. Women can carry either a hard-sided or a soft-sided briefcase. Avoid designer labels on handbags.
Above all else, your choice of wardrobe should fit well and be clean. Always check your appearance in a full-length mirror before leaving the house.
  • Even if you're between jobs, when you leave the house, be sure to look the part of a professional. Since networking opportunities can happen at any time, you have to look your best at all times.
Remember, your packaging counts. Now is the time to dress up yours!

Article copyright Marjorie Brody and Brody Communications Ltd. Marjorie Brody, MA, CSP, CMC, is founder and fearless leader of Brody Communications Ltd. in Jenkintown, PA, and an executive coach.

She helps individuals and corporations achieve their potential by strengthening their professionalism, persuasiveness and presence. Marjorie has presented to more than 1,000 audiences, and is the author of 15 books, including Help! Was That a Career Limiting Move?, Speaking is an Audience-Centered Sport, and Professional Impressions … Etiquette for Everyone, Every Day. She has appeared on CNBC several times, Fox-TV, Oxygen Network, and been quoted in The Wall Street Journal, Washington Post, People, BusinessWeek, Fortune and many other national publications.
Marjorie can be reached at 800-726-7936, or by visiting www.MarjorieBrody.com. To sign up for her free quarterly newsletter, go to www.BrodyCommunications.com.
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